Help Centre

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  1. What chimney sweeps can you recommend to clean the flue? 16/01/2019

    It would be great if we could keep an up to date national register of all the good chimney sweeps around the country but as you can imagine this is a somewhat transient profession and so a call through the good old yellow pages and an ask around some friends is usually the best course of action to get a sweep. 

    It is always worth asking them if they have done any local Pyroclassic fires before and if so can they tell you where so you can ask the homeowner how it went, any doubts and we are always happy to give some tips to proactive chimney sweeps.

  2. Why do I need a Wall Screen or a Flue Shield? 16/01/2019

    Pyroclassic Fires can be installed with a double skin half round flue shield or for minimum clearances from combustible walls a correctly sized wall screen must be installed, the clearances for these are shown in the relevant Tech Spec sheet for each fire. 

    Alternatively you can install a Pyroclassic Fire without wall screens if you chose to use a non-combustible wall board product such as Eterpan, Supalux or Promina board and install it as per the manufacture specifications. Usually this involves ensuring a 25mm air gap is maintained between the wall board and any timber framing, through the bottom, up between the combustible surface and the screening material and out of the top.

    In some instances the wall may not contain any combustible material and therefore will not require any screening.

    Pyroclassic Wall Screens now have a simple keyhole hanging system to make installation very easy.

  3. Do I need to grease the doorknob spindle? 16/01/2019

    A small amount of graphite grease should be applied sparingly and only occasionally to the spindle of the doorknob, twice a year is usually sufficient.

    Ashes from the fire have a gritty texture and over time this can cause wear on the doorknob spindle. Use a tiny amount of grease to lubricate the groove in the first thread of the spindle which can be applied with a matchstick or cocktail stick.

    Please note: only a small amount is needed, if too much is used it will melt and dribble down causing an unsightly stain, be sure to remove any excess before relighting the unit.

  4. How to replace the door to glass sealing gasket 16/01/2019

    Download the instructions here -  Replacing-Door-to-Glass-Sealing-Gasket.pdf

  5. Door knob troubleshooting 16/01/2019

    The expected lifespan of a door knob is somewhere between 4 - 10 years depending on how the fire is being operated.

    The door handle will get hot during operation and this is completely normal.

    There are two typical known causes of premature failure of the door knob. The first is excessive charring on the back of the knob due to high levels of concentrated heat from burning close behind the door area. The second cause can be due to the door being over-tightened when it is closed which in turn leads to it being very tight to open once the fire has heated up. The continued cycle of this over-tightening causes the screws to become weakened from the higher levels of load put on them in each direction each time, which eventually results in it coming loose and breaking away from their fixings.

    A combination of these two is actually the most common cause of door knob failure. To avoid these issues and extend the lifespan of the door knob, keep a clear area of approximately 10cm in the front of the firebox and maintain your fire underneath the air tubes in the top of the cylinder, this will give the additional benefit of letting the cylinder absorb the maximum amount of heat from your fuel load before it leaves the fire chamber.

    If you are finding the door knob too hot when trying to refuel your fire then you are probably trying to refuel too soon, the door knob is a great indicator of what’s happening within your fire so if you can’t reload then you don’t need to yet. If your door knob is starting to show signs of charring then you are probably burning your fire too close to the door. 

    Do not lean on the door or use it to help you stand up when it is open as this can cause the door to move. If your door does become misaligned then you will need to loosen the top bolt going horizontally through the hinge bar and lift the door back into the correct position for the spindle to line up and then re-tighten the bolt.

  6. What do I do if one of my side panels are shaking/rattling when the fire is going? 16/01/2019

    Because of the panels being interchangeable and not permanently fixed to the fire there is a small chance that occasionally a panel may rattle slightly in its channel, this is due to the small gap between the coloured panel and the channel which allows the panel to move ever so slightly.

    If this occurs then it can be remedied by removing the panel and putting a slight curve across the panel (you are only wanting to add a total of around 1mm - 2mm of curve) by flexing it from top to bottom. The easiest way to do this is to lie the panel half on a flat surface and apply weight to the bottom section on the surface and also to the top section hanging off the side. This will create a slight curve in the panel. Please note: You shouldn't bend it far enough to crease the panel or have any visible curve to it. This very small relief in the panel will mean that it sits tighter against both sides of the inside of the channel section and eliminates the rattle.

  7. I would like to move my existing wood fire to another location within the same house? 16/01/2019

    An existing burner that is moved within a house is considered to be a newly installed burner, so it must meet the woodburner standards in the National Environmental Standards for Air Quality. You may also need a building consent.

     

    See more information at http://www.mfe.govt.nz/air/national-environmental-standards-air-quality

  8. How do I clean the outside of the Pyroclassic and the flue pipes? 16/01/2019

    The powder coated panels on the Pyroclassic IV can be wiped clean with some light detergent and warm water.  You can choose to do this with the panels on the fire or remove them for a more thorough cleaning. Be careful when you remove the front panel to not tear the insulating gasket which is on the inside of the panel: you will need to pull the centre of the panel forward slightly to allow it to clear the space behind it when you slide it up.

    The stainless steel flue pipe can be cleaned using a soft cloth with a small amount of methylated spirits soaked into it. Try to avoid touching the flue pipe with your bare hands as this leaves oils from the skin on the pipe and becomes very hard to remove once the pipes have been heat cycled.

     

  9. My fire isn’t going like it used to and performs like the flue is blocked even after cleaning. What do I do? 16/01/2019

    Remove the front panel by sliding it up. If there’s a white felt material (gasket), remove this and put back front panel.

    Reason for removal: The gasket is present in Pyro models pre 2015. It was initially there to insulate the bolt but we found it restricted airflow as it tore and clogged the primary air intakes causing the fire to be starved of air.

    If the gasket is not there and you are still experiencing these same issues then it is likely to be one of these three reasons:

    1) Use of wet or unseasoned fuel - test your wood with a moisture meter by splitting a log in two and spiking the centre. If wood is above 20% this is not ideal and you should look at getting some drier wood.

    2) Flue height - it could be a case of the flue not getting enough draw so it needs to be extended to create more positive draw. Every house is different, some houses require 600mm, some 1200mm. This depends on roof configuration and external factors like neighbouring buildings, trees, cliffs & wind.

    3) Operation - you may be unintentionally not allowing the cylinder to get hot enough. Leave the Turboslide open for 30-45 minutes on initial start-up and open again for approximately 5-10 minutes after refuelling to ensure the new fuel has ignited and for the cylinder to maintain an optimum temperature. 

  10. Can a woodburner be exempted from complying with the National Environmental Standards for Air Quality. 16/01/2019

    No. The standards were introduced to ensure a baseline level of national consistency. Allowing exceptions to the National Environmental Standards for Air Quality would go against the intent of the standards and would compromise their integrity.

     

    See more information at http://www.mfe.govt.nz/air/national-environmental-standards-air-quality