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Why is the door glass small?
Big door glass = big waste of heat
Glass is a very poor insulator, which is not ideal when it comes to wood fires!
The original Pyroclassic fire did not even have a glass as the scientists wanted the fire to be as efficient as possible. Over time, consumers expressed their desire for a window into the fire which has resulted in the glass getting larger with each version.
The Pyroclassic IV has the largest door glass that can be fitted to the front of the fire as the glass retaining strips fit just inside the front opening of the fire chamber.
What are the clearances for a Pyroclassic IV installed on a mini raised woodbin?
You can download the installation clearances for installing a Pyroclassic IV on a mini raised woodbin HERE.
Why are there cracks and deterioration in my Pyroclassic cylinder?
This is a natural way to relieve built-up stress in refractories. It has no effect on operation, performance or useful life of the unit. The firebox is an arch structure, the most stable and permanent construction known. These cracks will develop over time and is nothing to worry about.
Due to it being cast as a one piece cylinder it goes through some expansion and contraction every time it is heat cycled. This is just the cylinder relieving its inert tension and results in a variety of different levels of cracking.
These cracks and blisters can slowly grow over time due to erosion through use. If you do not like the appearance of the cylinder when cracks appear, you can purchase veneering cement which can be mixed to a toothpaste like consistency and inserted into the cracked areas.
The story goes that the two original designers each had a Pyro and one touched up his cylinder every year and the other never touched his...25 years later both fires were still working albeit one was looked in better looking condition internally than the other!
25 year-old Pyroclassic II Cylinder
When and how should I clean the flue?
Pyroclassic Fires are renowned for burning very cleanly when dry fuel is used but you should still always clean your flue once a year. This is often a requirement for many insurance companies.
Keeping your flue pipes clean will help eliminate the risk of a flue fire. Your flue is also a great indication of how your wood fuel is performing. If the pipes are clean then the wood is good, if the pipes are filling up with carbon, creosote and tar deposits then you may need to revisit the operating instructions and refresh yourself with how to create a cleaner burning fire.
The easiest way to clean the flue is by placing a deep baking tray or similar under the base of the flue and sweep the flue down into this, this stops all the debris from falling into the top chamber and requiring vacuuming out. Sweeping the flue into the top chamber is never a good idea as it can restrict the flow of gasses from the primary fire chamber and cause your fire to perform poorly.
To clean the top chamber and wetback, you will need to remove the top plate (it just lifts off) and clean out the top chamber of soot and creosote. Take care not to remove any of the Kaowool lining during cleaning and ensure that the gasket is all intact before replacing the top plate. Support the flue with a frame made of wood so you can easily remove the top plate.
The build-up around the wetback is best removed by hand. The wetback can be knocked out of alignment if it is moved when the creosote is being cleaned off so be careful as this can cause the constant rise to be knocked out of alignment and can result in water hammer developing in the system.
How does the Pyroclassic IV burn overnight?
The overnight burn ability of the Pyroclassic IV is 100% dependent on the quality and size of fuel you put in it.
You will need to have a good ember bed established, then add 2 or 3 dry hardwood logs (preferably Kanuka) measuring approximately 400mm long by 120mm thick into the fire box. Allow the flames to establish on the front ends of the logs and then ensure the turboslide is fully closed meaning the air flow into the fire is controlled by the fire itself. The further back in the fire chamber you have the fire the longer it will burn for.
Remember, you need to add a kilo of fuel for every hour burn time required. If you follow these instructions you should have some hot embers left in the back of the fire chamber in the morning ready to be brought forward to establish another fire.
As a point of caution you should never insert a fresh log which is too large or placed in the fire too late to ensure a flaming combustion, doing this will cook the wood fuel on the remaining embers releasing unburnt volatile gases into the combustion chamber which will eventually reach a point of ignition, this can result in a sizable explosion inside the fire chamber and may cause damage to the unit.
How do I clean the glass?
If the correct quality fuel is burnt in the right manner, the glass should stay relatively clean. The air wash which passes down the inside of the door will scrub off any deposits during the burn cycle. If the glass is becoming dirty then scrunch two pieces of damp newspaper, dip one in cold fire ashes and rub over the inside of glass, use the other to rub over the glass to clean off the dirt. Do this in the morning before rekindling the fire as the glass will be cool enough at this time. To help keep the glass clear and clean if it is becoming dirty then get into the habit of cleaning it regularly as this will maintain the glass and prevent ashes from being fused onto the glass due to intense heat in the firebox.
What type of flue do you recommend
We recommend a 150mm flue kit for your Pyroclassic Fire.
As we are a carboNZero certified organisation, we are not keen to support the unnecessary freight of bulky flue components great distances when there are comparable products available from reputable manufacturers in your locality. Please speak to your local Pyroclassic agent about the Flue Kit options available to you in your area.
Why has the cowl not got a rain cap?
The Pyroclassic eco flue system and full flow vertical discharge cowl has been in use now for more than 20 years.
The cowl is designed to work with the fire in creating a good draw whilst not inhibiting the flow of the flue gases from the cowl. The design and shape of the cowl ensures that no significant amount of rain water can enter the flue system.
Many customers mistake the full flow cowl as the end of the flue pipe and often question whether something is missing from the cowl assembly when in fact this is the complete unit as it has no raincap or butterfly arrangement and is a straight pipe.
Can I use a heat transfer kit?
The simple answer is yes.
The thing with heat transfer kits is they work well with excess heat. The Pyroclassic IV produces a different kind of heat than your traditional 'black box' style wood fire. The black box fires spit out heat almost instantly as long as you keep refueling it regularly so will therefore provide you with excess heat which is why heat transfer kits are useful for these kind of fires. The Pyro on the other hand takes longer to heat up but once up to temperature retains this heat like a kiln and gives off a lovely, warm more consistent heat with less fuel needed once the cylindrical ceramic fire chamber is hot.
Many Pyro customers find this as the biggest advantage of a Pyro and have it going for 2-3 months solid during winter. However, it won't necessarily provide lots of excess heat for use in a transfer system. Our recommendation is to install the Pyro first before the transfer system as you may likely find you don't require one.
It is worth noting that in newer homes which have much better seals around doors and windows these kits can cause a negative pressure to build up in the room the fire is in as all the air is being sucked out. This results in the fire being starved of air and in some cases has even caused smoke from the starving fire being drawn back into the room. This same effect can also be caused by powerful range hoods and other fan forced systems in newer, more airtight housing.
If you are building a very airtight home, we recommend you put in an air vent, approximately the size of a fire brick. The Pyroclassic IV needs 3.6 cubic metres of air per kilogram of wood to operate effectively.
Why is smoke coming from my Pyroclassic fire into my room?
There are a few reasons why this could be happening:
- Negative pressure in the room - this can be caused by a household electric exhaust fan or severe pressure difference in a windstorm. Open a window to equalise the pressure.
- Severe down draft due to surrounding structures, hills, trees or roof layout.
- Most commonly, this is an indication your flue is blocked. Clear the obstruction and investigate the cause. Check the moisture of your wood and make sure you are burning good, dry wood. The flue pipe can block very quickly if you are burning wet or gummy wood. Make sure you are using a reliable chimney sweep as the Pyroclassic is different from other wood fires.
Download down draft troubleshooting info HERE.